by Charles Nelson

This is a record of a voyage. It fulfils the need to give a historical reference to a lost time.

As a young man of 21 and after completing my apprenticeship of 3 years and 9 months with Alfred Holt and company, I had to think about my future. I had passed my Second officer certificate and after working, as mate, on a Dutch barge through the canals of France, Holland, Germany and Switzerland, I had to decide whether to become a landlubber or earn some sea time for my next certificate.

I paid off in Basle and went to the pool, the Shipping Federation Employment offices in East London Dock Street.

The adventure began 12th October 1964. The pool gave me the choice of three ships. I chose the Hereford Beacon.

The pool doctor, after examination, asked if I had I ever been tramping before. He then said I had better take my own fork and spoon and being a trusting soul I believed him! I signed articles, two years give or take, and was given my joining instructions.

The ship, run by PHs. van Ommeren for Medomsley Steam Shipping Co., was at Immingham discharging sulphur from Coatzacoalacos, Mexico. I joined her as third mate having never seen bulk sulphur in my life. It was the same industry, but a change of culture which I was soon to embrace. Sulphur was everywhere. Brass buttons went green, pennies in your pocket developed a rash, the union purchase cargo runners became flashing snakes in contact with the hatch coamings. I met g. B. Ireland, Chief Officer, J. Ritson, second officer and later Captain W. v. Lusted. The ships company was multinational.

The deck officers were English including the radio officer, our engineering officers were German and Irish. The chief steward was English and the cook came from Cardiff. On deck there was a mixture of Cardiff Malays, West Africans, West Indians, Greeks, Portuguese, and Somali firemen in the engine room. The catering staff were Chinese.

Our next charter after discharge at Immingham was fixed with Scindia Company for general cargo out from Newport, Glasgow, Birkenhead, Genoa and Livorno for Bombay and Karachi. Sailed 30.10.64.

Approaching Port Said there was a change of uniform as the weather became warmer. I arrived at the saloon wearing my starched whites and proudly displaying my new epaulettes. I then realized that dressing for meals did not apply so much as before. I fled the breakfast table and re-dressed in my khaki cargo clothes.

The Canal transit required good helmsmanship. The watches were now in 3 ABS per watch with lookout farmer and standby. It passed without any problems except that one of our pilots walked into the wheelhouse door in the belief it was shut. The pilots then were a mixture of nationalities, just like our ship. Arrived Aden for bunkers and we bought various duty free goods from the bumboat men.

7.12.64, arrived Bombay discharged part cargo there was quite a lot of cargo damage from the stevedores.

3.12.64, arrived Karachi discharged and were chartered with Nippon Yusen Kaisha for iron ore to load at Mormagao for Nagoya via Polau Bukum, Singapore.

14.1.65 to 17.1.65, passage to Mormagao. The Malabar Coast a bit tricky.

24.1.65, loaded 12,950 long tons iron ore and sailed down the coast of Malabar to the Gulf of Mannar and Dondra head, then points east. Our position finding was based on the Marcq St. Hilaire intercept method for all celestial observations. The Chief officer had a new Sperry sextant with large index and horizon mirrors for his star sights, I had an old Heath Hezzanith endless tangent vernier, and the second mate used a Heath micrometer sextant we pressed on to the north of Sumatra and the Malacca strait.

1.2.65, approaching one fathom bank the name enough is to give one an upset stomach. It was here that we received orders to proceed to British Columbia from Nagoya light ship and load timber for Australia I lost my stake in the sweepstake by betting on going home from Japan!

2.2.65, arrived Pulau Bukum for fuel oil then sailed via Anambas islands towards the Balingtan passage north of Luzon Philippines. Our ship was slow and we follow the ocean passages for the world published by the hydrographer of the navy. Our speed was about 11 knots average with the power from a Doxford economy diesel engine. As they say ‘oh god be good to me, thy sea is so wide and my ship is so small’.

11.2.65, depart Kikai Shima in heavy rain no sights until 12.2.65 showed intercept of 20 miles inside of our course.

13.2.65, squeezed through Arako Suido and berthed at Nagoya. 100 ton grabs were used and they just fitted the hatch squares. The Chief Engineer was worried that these huge grabs might snatch off his propeller stern tube cover at the bottom of no 6 hold. We now dressed in blues uniform which usually meant long johns. Went ashore for the first time since Birkenhead and bought some porcelain. The second mate and myself worked out the calculations for a composite great circle route across the North Pacific with the vertex positions and rhumb line course well to the south of the Aleutian Islands.

15.2.65, as soon as we left Nagoya the weather got worse with snow and increasing wind from the NE.

19.2.65, we heave to. The ship kept falling off the wind and we could not keep a proper course. A year ago the ship had been lengthened at Bolnes yard and an extra hold had been put in place to make a 6 hold ship the consequent ballast arrangements were two side tanks forward near the fuel tanks. I think that this was inadequate. It was decided in order to bring the ships head down we would have to increase weight forward. Still hove to, we went down no. 1 hold and took off the 100 bolts securing the two lids of double bottom tanks. It was a grim business in the gloom and the cold. With the ship pounding to the swell. Eventually after about 7 hours we rigged the grain shifting boards fore and aft to a height of about 12 feet to cut down on free surface. The double bottom tanks were flooded up and into the hold. We finished after another 12 hours and proceeded and she steered much better.

22.2.65, I was called for my breakfast and watch and found that I could not move my legs and my wrist joints were stiff. Later the chief steward appeared with a cup of dissolved oxo and a knob of butter and I felt even worse! The captain took my 8 to 12 watch and I was told to rest.

25.2.65, dense fog. I returned to my 8 to 12 watch. During the forenoon I was trying to see the horizon and noticed far off on the port bow a large gray red mass. After calling the Captain he altered towards this and it showed to be a large whale probably a humpback who had gone adrift from last year’s migration. We thought it may have been struck by a ship. It was reported ashore as a danger to navigation.

23.2.65, received orders to proceed Port Alberni. Much reading of Thomas’ stowage regarding the loading of timber particularly on deck and the care needed for ships stability. I discovered Bob Dylan while trying to listen to our old radio and b became a devoted fan. He certainly helped me pass the time with his poetry and imagery.

1.3.65, hove to in heavy weather big swell and wind SSE force 9 to 10. Our observations for position became difficult due to the weather, and intercepts were transferred to ocean plotting charts for clarity. Finally, after a difficult voyage of 4,206 nautical miles, off Lennard Island, a pilot boarded and we entered the Alberni inlet in fine weather.

5.3.65, commenced loading timber for Adelaide. The stevedores/lumberjacks used a long pike with a steel tip and a hinged claw near the end for lifting and placing the baulks of timber. Some of us went ashore to see the doctor. He said that I probably had suffered glandular fever and a side symptom of tonsillitis brought on by bad conditions!

6.3.65, sailed for Victoria through the Juan de Fuca Strait.

7.3.65, arrived Victoria and commenced loading for Adelaide and Melbourne.

9.3.65, left for Vancouver loading for Australia.

12.3.65, depart for New Westminster, arrived same day, loaded re-saw timber and resin in bags.

6.3.65, left for Harmac arrived 17.3.65 loaded pulp in bales.

19.3.65, left for Nanaimo loaded lumber.

22.3.65, left and arrived New Westminster and loaded 3,261 tons of timber deck cargo to a height of 12 feet and secured with chain and bottlescrews.

27.3.65, to Vancouver to finish off deck cargo for Sydney. Mate sick after having two teeth removed.

30.3.65, all secured and sailed via Victoria and then full away to Sydney 7,010 miles away across the Pacific. A good weather passage average speed 10.5 knots. We checked deck lashings every day and sweated up where necessarily.

8.4.65, passed south of Nihoa Island of the Hawaiian group. Off Torres island in heavy rain and SE trades.

26.4.65, arrived off Sydney heads and went to berth at Darling Harbour. During discharge there was high drama as part of our cargo sank a dumb barge and the harbour had to be closed due to a large amount of floating timber. We laughed and sailed for Port Kembla, Melbourne and Adelaide. We received orders to load petroleum coke at Adelaide for Noumea, New Caledonia. At Adelaide I fell in love. One morning a beautiful girl came aboard and I was invited ashore for a meal. She had a car and later we travelled around Adelaide and had a marvellous time. We did have many visitors and they usually asked if we knew so and so at home, we always said yes and were invited ashore for drinks and food. I did not want to leave but I left with a heavy heart.

22.6.65, loaded 12,900 tons of coke for Noumea.

24.6.65. off Wilson premonitory and making 12.85 knots!

30.6.65, sighted Amedee lighthouse and then through Bulari passage and pilot onboard for Noumea. We received orders to sail for Houailou around the coast to load nickel ore for Fushiki Japan.

The captain was reluctant to coast to the next port without adequate charts even under pilotage. I was sent to the Noumean consulate to collect the charts. I dressed in my number 10 tropical suit. There I met this extraordinary beautiful girl she was the consulate secretary. We had a meal and coffee I shall always remember that day with the scent of her perfume and her flashing eyes.

6.7.65, completed discharge.

7.7.65, arrived Houailou and anchored in the Lagon de Ouenve. Such a paradise. The ore was brought down from the mine and loaded onto lighters which could only be delivered to the ship at high tide across the bar. The stevedores came on board and stayed. They bought everything with them including small sheds for accommodation. We fished for food. We had already four galleys on board. Chinese. Arab, Malay and European now we had another sort of French Micronesian. A small new tugboat was at our disposal. This was run by the lovely wife of the French stevedore manager. Bouganvilla and Gauloise was a heady combination. I had the pleasure of going to read the draught every morning and evening in her tugboat. We became good friends. Small grabs of 1, 7 and 3 tons were sent out to use with our union purchase rigged as yard and stay. Parts of a small bulldozer were assembled on board for trimming the are. It was an idyllic time and I was sorry to leave.

18.7.6, left for Fushiki and orders to go light ship from there to Sihanoukville, Cambodia to load bagged rice for Dakar West Africa. We loaded 12,900 tons nickel ore at Houailou. 6.8.65, we arrived at Fushiki. The typhoon Jean was around but did not approach Japan. 14.8.65, left Fushiki. Light ship, bound for Cambodia.

16.8.65, radar ceased to work it was a Marconi transistor prototype. Off Ose Saki Island and then sighted Me-Shima and Oshima Islands. Course 208° true. speed 12.29 knots.

17.8.65, noon position 28°14’N 125°2’. Received. From Guam radio that typhoon Mary was in position 24°70′ N 121°29’E. Although some way from us to the South and East. It was still too close for comfort and safety. Not being able to get into the navigable semicircle of the storm we reduced speed and turned to the north east. The weather began to deteriorate and the horizon and visible celestial bodies were obscured by low cloud. We worked on dead reckoning and hoped for a break in the cloud cover. The ship began too labour with the southerly swell and rolled heavily.

18.8.65, the sun appeared fitfully and I was able to take a sight accompanied by the Second Mate. Our intercept results were alarming having an intercept of 60 miles. 60 is a magic number in spherical trigonometry and navigation so we re-worked the calculation and found the same. This was all we had and after plotting and running up to noon we found our position. This event shows the trust the old man had in our observations and gave us great confidence. I think we were largely influenced by the Kuro Shio current 27°27’N 126°27E altered course to 160 true The effect of the tropical storm was still being felt and we gingerly made our way southwards guided by using observations of sun moon and stars. The dramatic moment came on sighting Yonakuni island lighthouse dead on our course. I felt very proud of our skills.

25.8.65, passing the Mekong Delta there was bombing and an invasion of Da Nang. Arrived at Sihanoukville, named after Prince Sihanouk a local celebrity and war lord.

17.8.65, commenced loading bagged rice. Selling of sterling and American dollars was worth twice the official exchange rate £1 for 180 Riels official rate 95 Riels. So we had a good run ashore. There were some Americans ashore and foreign journalists all talking about whether Nixon was going to bomb Cambodia. The rice came from inland and the trucks showed some damage from Viet Cong ambush. We had to make bagged rice slings and obtain palm mats and timber for ventilation of our cargo.

2.9.65, left Cambodia loaded with 12,700 tons of bagged rice. I was not sorry to leave such a dangerous place. Such a beautiful country with many kind, generous people waiting to be bombed. We were bound for Singapore for fuel and on to Dakar. Curiously I was able to take bearings on the approach to Pulau Sebarock using moonlight to illuminate Pulau Tioman and Pulau Alur.

5.9.65, took bunkers and left. Had a fairly straightforward passage towards the coast of South Africa.

23.9.65, we approached the 100 fathom line off the Cape using it as a line of position to cross with a bearing from the land and use the Agulhas current from the NE. at 2030 hours with a SSW force 8 to 9 the ship took a dive into a gaping hole in the sea. The ships head went down to such an angle that I saw the navigation light silhouetted against the sea the engines cut out. Tons of water were drawn onto the bow and as she recovered it swept along the deck and over the wheelhouse By this time all hands and the cook had appeared in the wheelhouse and we watched in fascinated horror at the scene before us. Luckily our wheelhouse windows held. Eventually the wind eased and we made our inspections of any damaged cargo and chippie sounded around. Engines were restarted after much cursing from the Chief complaining about my poor seamanship!

4.10.65, my twenty second birthday. I drank gin and wondered if I would ever get home for my 23rd birthday.

7.10.65, orders received to proceed from Dakar to Conakry, guinea for Gdynia to load iron ore, our old favourite. Arrived Dakar and commenced discharge. The rice was landed on the quay and soon became an enormous pile. It is surprising to see so much of our cargo as one single piece. Our small ship had carried a large load. Trucks were supposed to collect the rice. I suspect that it is still there. We swam in the Baie ‘ de Arachioles much to the dismay of the legionnaires we met in the bar. They warned us about the sharks there! Too late. Some of us had to have our Yellow fever inoculations renewed. This was done by the port doctor whose method of sterilisation was to use Perrier water.

15.10.65, left southward to Fernando Po and Conakry.

17.10.65, berthed.

20.10.65, loading started using conveyor belt and chute. The operation was efficiently run by Cuban army personnel. We lifted 12,900 tons of iron ore.

22.10.65, sailed for the Elbe 1 lightvessel.

27.10.65, sighted Gran Canaria in morning, speed 11 knots average. Shaped courses for Cabo Torinana and Ushant.

1.11.65, off Ushant. In heavy weather.

2.11.65, channel passage to Sandettie lightvessel then Texel light vessel following Nemedri buoyage routes to Borkum. Off Elbe 1 light vessel embarked pilot for Kiel Canal. At Kiellight vessel disembarked pilot and continued through the Baltic using Nemedri routes to Gdynia.

13.11.65, completed discharge and were ordered to Flushing lightship. I paid off there on.

16.1.65, on my return I went to Dock Street to present my proof of sea time to the chief examiner.

He was pleased to see that it was an easy calculation for him because I had sailed on one ship for over the required time.

I put my papers in for the Chief Officers Certificate of Competence and then sea time for Master after passing.