Turning the Tables

Scotland has a rich history of ferry services with an eclectic mix of vessels large and small. The roll on-roll off concept (both drive-through and single end loading formats) is taken for granted nowadays but in the past lifts were used to levitate vehicles from piers to vehicle holds as well as cranes. Slipways have long been a popular solution for transferring vehicles from shore to ship and back again, via manually or hydraulically operated prow ramps. Small rural vehicle ferries generally use slipways or basic linkspans if conditions dictate. Falling into this category are cross-river, waterway, coastal and cable/chain guided ferries. Those that do not offer a drive through facility often have a bow ramp with vehicles leaving the same way as they boarded, or via a side ramp. Some bow loaders are equipped with a turntable on the deck upon which the crew can turn cars so that they can be driven both on and off in a forward direction.

Ferries in operation today that were built with such a facility include CalMac’s Island Class vessels and the 2010 built Cromarty Queen. Eight Island class vessels were built at Port Glasgow, between 1972 and 1976, as the predecessors to the Loch class. They were of a very simple design, based on World War II landing craft. Only two of the original eight remained in the CalMac fleet at the time of writing, the Eigg and the Raasay. They are the smallest vessels in Calmac’s fleet and at 22.5 metres long can carry 164 passengers and 6 cars. A third member, the Canna, is now operated by Rathlin Island Ferry Ltd. with the Kilbrannan, Morvern, Bruernish, Rhum and Coll also finding new careers in Ireland. The Cromarty Queen was built at Southampton and entered service on the Nigg-Cromarty route in 2011. One of the smallest vehicle ferries in operation, the four car and 47 passenger capacity vessel replaced the even smaller 1987 built Cromarty Rose that could carry just two cars. An alternative to the aforementioned operation is a Scottish phenomenon – the turntable ferry.

About Turn

The Scottish turntable ferries that have served the straits and sea lochs of the Highlands are unique to this region and can trace their origins back to before the First World War. The first such vessel was born at Ballachulish in 1912 and involved the adaption of a clinker built Highland coble, a craft with a substantial beam for such a task and originally intended for the fishing trade. The Glencoe could carry one car, was built by McGruer & Co., Clynder, Gareloch and served until 1935. Generally the wheelhouse on a turntable ferry was located aft and the remainder of the hull was occupied by a rotating vehicle deck with ramps at each end. The deck sat on a centrally located turntable so could swing in either direction to permit loading/unloading at concrete or stone slipways on most states of the tide. Such ferries were built over six decades with the last one, the Lochaber, being completed in 1973. The Lochaber was built by James Noble Ltd. of Fraserburgh, as were a large proportion of these craft, and could carry up to nine cars and served until 1984 when replaced by the drive through ferry Maid of Glencoul.

The first generation ferries dated between 1912 and 1940 with a capacity for one or two cars. The refined second generation (1935-1955) could accommodate between two and four vehicles with hulls and ramps being increasingly fabricated from steel. The third and final generation were built 1951-1973 complete with enclosed wheelhouses and counter weight or spring operated ramps. Passenger accommodation was also provided aboard some craft. These ubiquitous little workhorses brought otherwise isolated communities together, avoided lengthy detours by road and assisted in the tourism boom. Routes served included Corran, Kyleakin, Ballachulish, Kessock, Kylesku, Scalpay and Strome but in the 1960s the increased use of the motor car, motor tourism and road freight haulage put these ferries under mounting pressure. At best their decks could only take a vehicle of a maximum weight of nine tonnes and between two and nine cars depending on the vessel and vehicle size. So, queues at peak times frequently overwhelmed the crossing points. One example of growth saw vehicle numbers in 1954 peak at over 40,000 only to exceed an eye watering 200,000 in 1974. In 1966 seventeen turntable ferries were plying their trade but ten of these had been withdrawn by 1976. Many succumbed to uninspiring bridge crossings whilst others were replaced by larger types of ferry.

Star Turn

As the population of turntable ferries began to dwindle it was perhaps rather fitting that a born survivor should emerge in the form of an example built for the first turntable ferry route, Ballachulish.

The 43.99gt, Fraserburgh registered Glenachulish was built in 1969 by the Ailsa Shipbuilding Company in Troon (Yard No. 529). The six car capacity ferry is 17.55 metres long with a 6.58 metre beam. Power is provided by a 180hp Kelvin T6 engine driving a single screw propeller via a 2:1 gearbox. Tick over is at 190rpm and this increases to 600-700rpm en passage at a service speed of 7 knots. The maximum output is 1,100rpm, but the engine is not worked this hard. Generally vessels with twin-screws perform better manoeuvrability wise but, as a turntable ferry works in relatively shallow waters, a single 4-bladed screw arrangement performs much better as a shallower hull draught can be utilised. A single 106cm diameter screw also negates the risk of debris being drawn up in an up-draught plus the associated potential propeller damage. Only the Kyleakin route employed twin screw turntable ferries. The turntable measures 13.97m long by 4.57m wide and is a lattice framework with planks on top. The planks are 4.57m long and 17.5cm to 23cm wide depending on where the timber is sourced (donated by the Forestry Commission). The planks are currently Larch so the thickness has been increased to 5.50cm approx. The turntable is mounted on a central locating pin bush and the load is borne by 12 steel wheels which run on a circular rail. Originally the turntable was cleared for 20 tons but, due to age, this is now reduced to 15 tons with a maximum single vehicle weight of 10 tons and a maximum axle loading of 3 tons on a 300mm x 300mm footprint. The four loading ramps each measure 2.18m square with the two starboard ones having a graded 30.50cm extension to compensate for the slope of the slipway.

The ferry is christened after Glenachulish, a glen and hamlet near South Ballachulish. The name in Gaelic is Gleann a’ Chaolais, valley of the narrows; pronounced Glen – ah –hoolish. The Glenachulish was the first and last steel built ferry for the Ballachulish route and was also the last steel built turntable ferry. She replaced the 1959 built Glen Mallie and operated with the 1964 built Glen Loy. The 1961 built Glen Duror was reserve vessel. The new Ballachulish Bridge was opened on 23rd December 1975 but the original opening date was 4th October. The Ballachulish Ferry Company had already sold its fleet and ceased operations on the October opening date regardless. So, the Glenachulish, having being purchased by the Highland Regional Council for £15,000, was pressed into service to serve the link until the bridge was finally in use. From a lay-up berth at Inverness she then served as relief vessel at Corran, Kessock and Kylesku from 1975 to 1982 before being sold in 1983 for service at Glenelg. Murdo MacKenzie purchased the faithful vessel which then replaced her Ballachulish predecessor, the Glen Mallie. The owner’s livery was applied and the wheelhouse was fully enclosed. Since then the vessel has operated the Glenelg ferry across the Kylerhea narrows between Easter (or earlier if Easter is late) and mid-October each year. Sailings are offered seven days a week between 10am and 6pm (10am to 7pm June, July, August). The frequency is every 20 minutes or as required. The 550 metre (3 cables) crossing from Glenelg to Kylerhea takes only 5 minutes and is the shortest sea crossing to Skye. There has been a ferry at this location for over 400 years, with a car ferry operating since 1934. This is Skye’s oldest ferry link and one of only two remaining ferry services to Skye from the mainland, the other being the Caledonian MacBrayne service between Mallaig and Armadale.

In normal service the boat berths alongside the slipway and the turntable is rotated out onto the slipway and ramps lowered to permit disembarkation and embarkation. Prior to departure the turntable deck is then spun round 180 degrees to permit the cars to be facing the right way when the destination is reached. Low tide often requires a “Tbone” operation where the ferry berths alongside the end of the slipway and the deck is rotated at right angles to the slipway to unload. The operation has always been seasonal and is now marketed as one of the region’s tourist attractions. Navigation of the Kylerhea Narrows can be demanding with a tide race of up to eight knots plus whirlpools and eddies to negotiate and large rocks close to the Glenelg slipway. The slipways can be used at most states of the tide but extreme low tides can require a suspension of the service. The only other limitation upon the service courtesy of Mother Nature is wind speeds, a Force 8 being the general limit.

Table Service

In 1988 Murdo MacKenzie advertised his transport facility for sale at around £55,000. Being determined to find a suitably qualified/experienced buyer, the process took a while with no sailings offered in 1990. The Glenachulish resumed service in 1991 carrying a new livery. The turntable ferry had outlived all of her sisters, who did not remain in service beyond 1985, so her uniqueness was strongly marketed by the new regime. Sunday sailings in Scotland have frequently been a bone of contention among communities but the Glenelg route has offered service 7-days a week since 1993. After 7 years Roddy MacLeod decided to sell the ferry service to its community with Glenelg voting “no thanks.” However, the Isle of Skye Community Interest Company was formed in early 2006 by enthusiasts and raised £9,000 to lease the Glenachulish initially until sufficient funds were available to purchase her. Maintaining a vessel that is over 45 years of age is quite a challenge as is maintaining a profit in this day and age. The 2006 season was a baptism of fire for the new regime as crew training, mechanical issues and the weather all played their part in disrupting the routine.

Knowledge gained allowed the group to put together a business case for buying the ferry. In February 2007, thanks to funds from the Big Lottery Growing Community Assets Fund, Skye & Western Ross Enterprise (now HIE) and Highland Opportunity Community, the Isle of Skye Community Interest Company was launched. Through the tough early years, and with purely voluntary management, commitment to the boat helped keep the whole enterprise afloat. The company was re-organised in 2009 and a part-time CEO of the social enterprise was appointed. The exact date of closure each October is largely dependent on weather and customer numbers. It should be remembered that the service receives no Government or Council subsidy and, as a Community Interest Company, cannot afford to run at a loss. In recent times the leases on the two slipways have been renewed for another 25 years. The Glenachulish is usually refitted at Kishorn with any major work being completed in Stornoway.

In 2009, her 40th year, the ferry required hull and keel maintenance during annual refit whilst in 2010 new ramps were fitted. Every five years the Maritime & Coastguard Agency issues a Passenger Loadline Exemption Certificate once all necessary work is undertaken. This is in addition to the annual maintenance regime. The five year inspection sees the Glenachulish slipped at Stornoway to permit the examination of the drive shaft and to ultrasound the hull. The A890 Strome bypass was vulnerable to landslips and, as a back-up plan, the Glenachulish visited Loch Carron for berthing trials at the disused slipways in 2003. This was a wise move indeed as such a landslip scenario occurred on 22nd December 2011. The road closure required the Glenachulish to be woken from her winter slumber and pressed into service on the long-closed Strome ferry link from 16th January to 22nd March 2012. The service across Loch Carron, which had not operated for 42 years, avoids a 140 mile diversion by road. The Glenachulish suffered a mechanical failure and an unfortunate grounding in March but the extra revenue from the Strome service helped fund a major refit to her Kelvin T-6 engine at Mallaig ahead of the 2013 season.

The 45th anniversary in 2013 was celebrated in Glenelg on 8th August and in 2018 the Glenachulish will be 50 years old when she is to be added to the National Historic Ships Register. In 2012 she was accepted on to the National Archive of Historic Vessels so this was the next step. The 2013 season was kind to the ferry operation with the rebuild of the engine paying dividends. Fuel consumption was down by 6 litres per day over previous years which represents around £1,000 in savings on fuel cost for the season. The Glenachulish sailed for 7 months/30 weeks/210 days with only 7 days lost to weather disruption. A total of 12,732 litres of fuel, 28 litres of engine oil, 10.5 litres of gearbox oil and 62.75 litres of stern-tube lube oil were consumed by the old girl. On average around 30,000 passengers are conveyed per season. For the winter 2013-2014 refit at Kishom the ferry loaded old greenheart pier timbers kindly released by the Community Council to be cut up and used for baulks that the ferry, once out of the water, can sit on. This time around the turntable deck was removed for, it would seem, the first time in her career. The deck turntable consists of a central pressfit bearing and 12 trunnion wheels. These were all removed with just two wheels requiring new bearings. The hull was surveyed in January and, subject to funding, the fendering arrangements for the starboard side may be renewed.

On 27th July 2014 a party was held at the Glenelg slipway to celebrate the Glenachulish’s return to her original livery (green hull) and the restoration of the slipway on the mainland side. Cameron of Lochiel, Lord Lieutenant of Inverness was the special guest. His father was owner of the Ballachulish Ferry Company who commissioned the Glenachulish in 1968 to work the crossing before the bridge was built there.

The world’s last sea going and manually operated turntable ferry is still plying the Kylerhea Narrows in 2015 in what is her 47th year. Readers may also be interested to know that a Glenachulish Preservation Trust webpage is being set up at www.gptskyeferrycharity.com. The general website is www.skyeferry.co.uk.

Technical Specifications